Your Windows & Doors: Shape how you see the world & how the world sees you!
Is the #1 reason homeowners replace their windows and doors financial such as reduced energy bills, adding resale value and curb appeal, or return on their home improvement investment? Or is the #1 reason that they finally decide enough is enough and replace their old, drafty windows and doors due to aesthetics, ergonomics, or simple vanity; they just hate the way they look, operate, or reflect back on them? Truth be told, the latter gets the ball rolling and the former justifies the decision to proceed. This isn’t “rocket science”, it’s human nature.
Case in point: Some homeowners will pay too high energy bills for years and allow their family to complain about how cold they are during the winter heating season and warm they are during the summer air conditioning season. But have a window stick one time too many, an entry door make them embarrassed to open, or have a valued friend comment on how much nicer their view would be if their windows weren’t so cloudy (from moisture due to broken seals and spacers). Then they’ll be on the phone or searching the internet the next day for a reputable replacement window & door contractor.
While you’re not necessarily required to replace your current windows and doors with the same types and styles, you may be limited in your choice of replacement windows and doors by the openings available. Of course you can change the size of the openings to accommodate your desires but that will likely require added time and expense. This is not meant as a discouragement, just offered for your consideration. Now let’s look at your choices for types, styles, glass and gas for your replacement windows and how to rate them…
Vinyl, wood or aluminum-clad wood replacement windows: which type is right for you?
Each type of replacement window has advantages and disadvantages. This chart looks at several:
Vinyl: Extremely Durable; Quite Strong; Very Engergy Efficient; Virtually Maintenance Free; Streamlined & Flexible Design - Limited Color Palette; Moderate Expense
Wood: Wood Frames are more susceptible to damage associated with moisture ; A Bit Weaker than vinyl; Energy Efficient; Maintenance required at regular intervals such as painting, scraping, etc.; Unique designs and natural beauty of wood with limitless options; Moderate to High Expense
Aluminum-Clad Wood: Aluminum Clad - Durable Exterior Frame is Very Strong, Interior Frame is A Bit Weaker; Energy Efficient; Interior only; Finish to match your decor; Moderate to High Expense
Window Styles: which do you like?
Whether awning, bay, casement, double hung or slider, each have looks and features that may be right for you. Here are examples and information to help you decide which are best for you…
Awning Windows
Awning windows feature a top hinge and open outward. Your replacement awning windows will generally provide for lesser rates of air leakage. The reason? The sash closes by pressing against the window frame. Note that screens are placed on the interior of the window frame.
Bay Windows
Bay windows are generally comprised of three or more windows. A unique look is achieved by projecting the side units out from the exterior in 30, 45 or 90-degree angles. For your replacement bay windows, you can elect for individual windows to remain stationary or operating. You may even choose to make your center window stationary and the two side units operating as double hung or casements.
Casement Windows
Casement windows are based on a side hinge design. The benefits of replacement casement windows include: lower air leakage rates, a sash that closes by pressing to the frame, and screens that are placed on the interior. Additionally, because casement windows project outward, the home is afforded better ventilation than sliders of similar size.
Double Hung Windows
Double hung windows feature the ability to slide each sash vertically. You are able to control the level of ventilation from a small opening to one half of the total glass dimension. Additionally, with double hung replacement windows, you have the option of placing a screen on the exterior of the window frame. Double hung windows also come with a tilt-in feature shown here with the added benefit of carefree cleaning.
Gliding Windows
Gliding windows allow homeowners to slide both sashes horizontally. Benefits are similar to that of double hung windows: ventilation area can be manipulated, and screens can be placed on both the interior and exterior of the unit.
Fixed Frame Windows
Fixed frame windows are the most basic of styles. This term typically alludes to windows that are inoperable or non-venting.
Grades of Glass
Choices! Choices! Choices! Now that you know your window style options, you will need to consider the various types of glass that are available. There are several different grades, and you will want to make the best decision based on your energy efficiency goals. This section has been designed to help you do just that!
Clear Glass
As you probably have already guessed, clear glass is the preferred material for home windowpanes. But with newer techniques such as glazing or cutting, as well as custom fitting, consumers now have the ability to 'customize' the appearance of their windows. Additional enhancements include glazing options that help control heat loss and condensation.
Low-Emissivity Glass (Low-E)
Low-E glass features a unique surface coating that reduces the heat transfer back through the window. In fact, such a coating can reflect anywhere from 60% of the normally transmitted heat without inhibiting the amount of light that passes through the window.
Window Gas Fills
The insulated glazing mentioned above will improve the thermal performance of your replacement windows. The thermal performance can be further improved when the space between the glass panes is filled with gas.
To accomplish this further improvement in thermal performance, window manufacturers use inert gases—ones that do not react readily with other substances. Because these gases have a higher resistance to heat flow than air, a gas is sealed between the window panes to decrease a window's U-factor (see below).
The most common types of gas used by window manufacturers include argon and krypton. Argon is inexpensive, nontoxic, non-reactive, clear, and odorless. Krypton is more expensive but has a better thermal performance (lowers the windows’ U-factor even more).
Energy Performance Ratings for Windows, Doors, and Skylights
The energy performance ratings of windows, doors, and skylights tell you their potential for gaining and losing heat, as well as transmitting sunlight into your home.
Heat Gain and Loss
Windows, doors, skylights can gain and lose heat in the following ways:
• Direct conduction through the glass or glazing, frame, and/or door
• The radiation of heat into a house (typically from the sun) and out of a house from room-temperature objects, such as people, furniture, and interior walls
• Air leakage through and around them.
These properties can be measured and rated according to the following energy performance characteristics:
• U-factor
The rate at which a window, door, or skylight conducts non-solar heat flow. It's usually expressed in units of Btu/hr-ft2-ºF. For windows, skylights, and glass doors, a U-factor may refer to just the glass or glazing alone. But National Fenestration Rating Council U-factor ratings represent the entire window performance, including frame and spacer material. The lower the U-factor, the more energy-efficient the window, door, or skylight.
• Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC)
A fraction of solar radiation admitted through a window, door, or skylight—either transmitted directly and/or absorbed, and subsequently released as heat inside a home. The lower the SHGC, the less solar heat it transmits and the greater its shading ability. A product with a high SHGC rating is more effective at collecting solar heat gain during the winter. A product with a low SHGC rating is more effective at reducing cooling loads during the summer by blocking heat gained from the sun. Therefore, what SHGC you need for a window, door, or skylight should be determined by such factors as your climate, orientation to the sun, and external shading.
• Air leakage
The rate of air infiltration around a window, door, or skylight in the presence of a specific pressure difference across it measures air leakage. It's expressed in units of cubic feet per minute per square foot of frame area (cfm/ft2). A product with a low air leakage rating is tighter than one with a high air leakage rating.
Energy Performance Testing, Certification and Labeling
The National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) operates a voluntary program that tests, certifies, and labels windows, doors, and skylights based on their energy performance ratings. The NFRC label provides a reliable way to determine a window's energy properties and to compare products.
Doors: More options than you might have considered
Entry Doors
There is not one greater statement about who you are and how welcome all your friends, neighbors and family are to your home than the entry door they approach and you open upon their arrival. Not only will a new entry door enhance the beauty of your home, it will also reduce your heating and cooling costs, enhance your home’s security, add curb appeal and Increase the resale value of your home.
Entry Door Options
You have more options with entry doors than ever before. You can choose from single or double doors in steel, fiberglass or wood. You can pick among embossed, smooth, or textured finishes. You can pick a solid door or one with beveled, leaded, etched, clear, or tinted glass – in many window styles. There are half-round, ellipse, or rectangular transom windows plus single sidelight or double sidelite windows. Options include door hardware and locksets. Your choices are plenty! But don’t be overwhelmed, your Burr door & window specialist will help you find the right entry door for your lifestyle and budget.
Solid Door
As the name implies, a solid door is all door, it does not have any glass. Solid doors can have smooth or textured finish, or can have embossed panels.
Doors With Glass
You now have almost endless options for glass in your entry door. Single windows in oval, half-light, or full-light size; double windows; or doors with half-round or arched quarter light windows – and even multiple options within each of these types!
Transom Windows
Transom windows sit above the entry door. As you now have figured out, there are many different styles of transoms to choose from too. Transom windows can be elliptical, half-round or rectangular, and can be made from clear, etched, beveled, frosted or leaded glass.
Sidelite Windows
Sidelite windows are located beside the entry door. You’ll find a single sidelite window on one side only and double sidelite windows on both sides of the entry door. Sidelites can be ½ the size of the entry door, ¾-size, or full length. They can be rectangular or rounded, and can be made with clear, beveled, etched, frosted or leaded glass to create the specific look and flair you’re after.
Patio Doors
Your patio door(s) say as much about the rear and sides of your house as your entry doors. Patio doors also reduce your heating and cooling costs, enhance your home’s security, provide added ventilation, increase light and improve your view, and increase the value of your home; they bring the outside in!
Patio Door Options
Here too, your options abound. Your choices include sliding, French, swing-in or out styles in fiberglass, wood, vinyl, or steel. Glass choices include clear, etched, or tinted. Hardware and lockset options are many. Be sure to discuss these with your Burr windows & doors specialist too.
Sliding Patio Doors
Sliding patio doors, as you might expect, are patio doors that slide on tracks. Typically, one side is stationary and the other slides to open and close; however, sliding patio doors can be 2-part, 3-part, or more, and any number of the panels can slide.
French Patio Doors
French Doors are hinged at the outside of the unit and contain at least two active panels that swing in or out from the center of the unit.
Storm Doors
Storm doors give you the option of letting more of everything good about the outside, like additional light, ventilation and view, while keeping out the bad, like unwelcome weather, pests and other intruders. As you will soon see, they add much more than they detract from the beauty of your home.
Storm Door Options
Storm doors come with ½-light, ¾-light, or full view. Glass options include clear, etched, or tinted. You also have such options as pet doors, kick plates and retractable screens. Here too you’ll find the right storm door for your lifestyle and budget.
½-Light Doors
½-Light Doors have windows and/or screens occupying about ½ of the door’s area. Single or two-piece windows are available with the full complement of glass options.
¾-Light Doors
¾-Light Doors have windows and/or screens taking up about ¾ of the door’s area. Single or two-piece window configurations are available along with all of your glass options.
Full View Doors
Full view doors have windows and/or screens that fill almost the entire area of the door. Single or two-piece windows are available with many different glass styles and configurations.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
To Improve or Not to Improve Your House With a New Exterior
Vinyl Siding vs. Cedar Siding vs. Fiber Cement vs. Painting
These are the four choices which represent the most economical and viable options you have if the exterior of your house is in need of attention, for whatever reason. Those reasons can be anything such as you’re at risk of losing value in one of your most important assets, or you’d like to improve its “curb appeal” to help you sell, or you’d just love a “new” house to come home to. Each reason to improve the appearance or “look” of your house may warrant a different solution. And chances are good that a new, quality siding product or a fresh couple coats of new premium exterior house paint will address your problem.
Deciding what type of home siding is right for you is a bit like shopping for a new car. There are many options to choose from. You select the make and model you prefer based on your driving needs, i.e. performance, mileage, etc. The same is true when considering your siding options! As you decide which of the following options is right for you, please consider your house as it is now and what siding options you think could apply; your neighbors and your neighborhood: will what you’re considering complement the homes that are nearby; the amount of time you plan to stay in your home: that will impact your return on this home improvement investment; your dreams for your home: which option(s) have you begun to lean toward over the weeks, months and maybe years since you first contemplated this improvement? As Burr Roofing – Siding – Windows knows, deciding which choice is right for you can be part of a difficult decision. However, the siding option you choose represents only 20% of your total satisfaction. The contractor you choose to install it and stand behind it represents 80% of your total satisfaction. The goal is for you to make your smart choice. That takes 100% commitment to your 100% satisfaction…
Let’s start with “the 20%”
Revitalizing your home has never been simpler! Installing vinyl, cedar or fiber cement siding, or having premium exterior house paint applied will update your home’s look, enhance curb appeal, protect your home from the elements and increase your resale value. Still, it is quite an investment and you will want to carefully choose which option, style, color(s) and type of siding is best for you and your home. Truth be told... vinyl, cedar, fiber cement siding or painting/staining each have strengths and weaknesses depending on what is important to you. All of these options have proved to satisfy and delight homeowners everywhere with a “new” home they love coming home to every day!
Vinyl Siding
Valued for its long lasting qualities, array of styles, colors and durability, vinyl siding provides instant curb appeal. The cost of vinyl siding is also lower than that of other replacement siding materials.
Generally, thicker is better. The thinner the siding, the more it could sag over time. The thicker the siding, the stiffer and more durable it will tend to be. The best vinyl siding is thick and stiff.
Wind resistance. You want siding that will stay on the house in a storm. Some manufacturers actually warranty their siding in winds over 150 mph. Be sure to ask about wind resistance and the warranty.
Getting attached to siding. Unlike wood, vinyl siding is not attached tightly to the house. It more or less hangs on the side of the house, because it contracts and expands with heat and cold. A double hem mounting area usually provides better attachment than a single hem. If the siding is too tight, there's poor ventilation. If it's too loose, it can be noisy. Bottom line: it needs to be installed properly.
Rain resistance. Because it hangs loosely, vinyl siding is less likely to trap moisture. However, there are also areas where water can leak inside, so proper flashings should be installed, as well as house felt or builder's wrap.
Fading factor. The best vinyl siding, which is more expensive, tends to fade less than cheaper siding. Look for UV protection in the description, and ask about how it will stand up to sunlight. Also, if you live in a sunny area, ask about whether a light color would fade less than a dark color.
Pick you profile. Some vinyl siding is designed with a deeper profile, or a more pronounced bend in the design of the siding. This generally looks more like wood. So consider the overall look of the siding, to be sure you get what you want.
Cedar Siding: More Options – More Decisions
Cedar, over other types of exterior materials, is chosen for beauty and appeal more than maintenance and cost. While cedar is durable, rich, and natural, it does need to be re-stained or painted to keep its attractiveness. However, it can be left to naturally age without cracking, rotting or warping like other wood. You'll never have to chemically treat cedar if you like the unfinished look, and it has natural anti-fungal and antibacterial properties due to the tannins present in the wood.
You will need to consider the style of your home and those in your neighborhood. What color will enhance the beauty of your home? Given the local climate, how long will the siding last? Is it difficult to maintain? And, of course, can you afford the cost of vinyl siding or the other options?
There are few companies in the Fairfield, New Haven and Westchester counties that have the experience you need when it comes to cedar house siding. Proper installation and proper finish application is crucial to long-term performance. Make sure the company you are considering to do the work has a good number of cedar siding jobs under their belt. If you select the right product and have it installed correctly, cedar siding has incomparable beauty.
There are generally two types of cedar siding, red cedar and white cedar.
Red Cedar
Red Cedar is available in several basic styles and is more durable than white cedar. They are horizontal clapboard style (known as beveled siding), shingles, and shakes. Ask about the different grades available, which are generally determined by grain pattern.
TIP: As a rule, the narrower and thicker the grain pattern, the better the performance. Red Cedar is generally sold in clear unfinished form. Many homeowners like the natural look of weathered cedar. We do not advise this option because the product will not perform over the long term if left untreated.
TIP: Clear unfinished cedar house siding will not weather evenly due to each side of your house being exposed to the weather differently.
Clear Coat Solution Available For Unfinished Cedar
If you really prefer the natural look of unfinished cedar there is a clear coat solution available that will prolong the life of the wood and enable it to weather more slowing and evenly. This will allow you to maximize the performance and beauty of the product on your house. This clear coat is applied after the siding has been installed and is an excellent option if a long-term natural look is your goal.
Make sure to mention this when you speak to your Burr siding specialist.
Red Cedar is also available pre-primed at the factory, which means it has been coated on all sides using a primer such as Cabot's primer. This adds a benefit of sealing all sides (front, back, and edges) of the product so it is less likely to absorb moisture, expand and contract and move around like it will do in its natural state. This will prolong the life of the wood. But even factory pre-primed product will require field applied finish coats. Factory warranties on this finish range from 5 - 15 years.
Most site-applied stain rarely comes with more than a one or two year warranty on the finish. So for maximum performance consider a pre-primed or pre-finished option.
TIP: It is a fact that a house releases moisture everyday similar to sweating. If the backside of your cedar siding has not been treated, the moisture will find its way through the siding and try to push out through the painted or stained surface causing bubbles and cracks. If you prefer the beauty of wood siding and want to avoid painting any more than necessary be sure to purchase a siding product that has been back-sealed with a primer or finish coat.
White Cedar
White cedar is a shingle product only and comes from a different part of the country and from a different tree than red cedar. White cedar offers a very unique look and has very different grain characteristics than red cedar. In its natural state it has almost a whitish very light appearance and left unfinished it characteristically weathers to a silvery gray, a lighter color than what red cedar would weather to. White cedar is found in the North East and is famous on Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket. The shingles are smaller than red cedar shingles and offer a very unique and beautiful look on certain types of architecture (e.g. Cape Cod style houses, ranch style houses and some colonial style houses) A very “beachy” look indeed!
White cedar is also available factory finished and stained in various colors. But what makes white cedar so different than red cedar is that it comes available using a bleaching oil stain. This particular style is fast becoming a Burr specialty. Bleached white cedar is a very popular look in Coastal Connecticut. When bleached, you immediately get that silvery gray tint right from beginning consistently over the whole house.
The bleaching oil process allows for the weathering to occur very gradually and evenly keeping a uniform attractive appearance. Very often our customers see this style and they automatically say... "Yes, that is the look I want!"
Textures
Cedar Siding is available in smooth, rough or saw-textured surfaces. When used with clear or semi-transparent finishes, a smooth surface will show the grain patterns and color variations in the wood more than other textures. These surfaces also absorb less finish and typically require more maintenance than other textures. In contrast, rough and saw-textured surfaces can absorb about twice as much finish as smooth textured surfaces and, when protected by stain or water repellent finishes, need to be recoated much less frequently.
Wood siding and wood finishes go hand in hand in providing consumers with virtually unlimited choices for appearance. By properly selecting the grade, seasoning, pattern and texture of the siding and by protecting it from moisture, sun and mold with a quality finish, wood siding can last for many decades.
Accessories & Trim Work
Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference such as decorative trim including crown moldings, window casings, corner posts, fascia, soffits, freeze boards, accent trim, etc.
Burr Roofing – Siding – Windows specializes in this trim work that can really accent the look and feel of your new siding. Ask your siding specialist when you speak with him about available options for your project.
Tips on Maintaining Cedar House Siding
Moisture is the biggest and most common problem to homes with cedar siding. Moisture penetrates the siding through the smallest cracks and crevices, but keeping your siding dry takes just a few simple steps.
Check the flashing and caulking around your home
Try to maintain the interior humidity of around 40%
Install heating wires at the eaves to melt any ice before water backs up under the roof shingles
Have ice and water barrier installed initially or when re-roofed
Be sure your attic is properly insulated and air is well-circulated
Hire a contractor to take these measures if you cannot do it yourself
Cleaning Cedar Siding
Many people choose cedar siding for their homes because of how it looks. When it is properly maintained, cedar siding can be beautiful because of its color, but it can be susceptible to mildew, mold spores, bugs and dirt.
To clean, use a pressure washer. One can be rented from your local tool rental store. Use a somewhat low pressure to wash the siding or you will damage your wood. Wash the area with water first, then mix together a solution of water, dish or laundry soap and a little bleach for a cleaner that can transform your siding from grimy to gorgeous.
Cedar shakes and shingles are no different. They, too, can be damaged by moisture or severe weather, such as hail. But they are not maintenance-free and do not last a lifetime. They will need replacement if damaged and while they are highly efficient and are biodegradable, maintenance is required.
Make sure downspouts run all the way to the ground to keep moisture away from your shakes
Keep downspouts free of debris
Trim overhanging branches to avoid debris from falling on the shakes or in the downspouts
Treat your shakes to an anti fungal treatment at least once
Cedar needs to be stained or painted every few years to maintain it's natural beauty.
What else should I know when considering buying Cedar siding?
Cedar siding should last for many, many years, but it must be properly maintained.
Proper maintenance includes power washing, staining and sealing whenever the heat of the sun fades the finish, or moisture starts to turn to mold or mildew. Always allow wood to dry well before applying a new stain or finish.
Cedar is known for its grain and its rot resistance. It is straight, and resists splitting. Cedar takes a stain well and reveals a rich character. It is commonly used in shakes and shingles because it is dimensionally stable, resists swelling, and has less cupping and splitting. Cedar clapboards are popular, too, but clear grade A cedar can be very costly. Still, for its grain and texture, cedar is preferred for stain applications.
Some say that cedar is inherently more moisture and insect-resistant than pine, but no wood is insect or moisture-proof. All woods must be sealed and stained or painted to resist moisture, damage, and decay.
If not properly cared for, wood siding can quickly deteriorate. Common troubles include bowed or expanded panels, shrinkage, disintegration, fading and the local critters. It is important that you minimize exposure to moisture, i.e. avoid 'watering' your house by distancing sprinklers.
Painting will be required every 5 to 7 years, and staining every 3 to 5. Regular inspections of joints, nails and planks will help you maintain your wood siding for the years to come.
What is Fiber Cement siding & why should I consider Hardiplank® Fiber Cement for my home?
For homeowners that want the look of wood but don’t want the hassles and costs associated with it, fiber cement siding is a great alternative. Burr relies on fiber cement industry leader, James Hardie and their fantastic Hardiplank®. This product is available in a variety of textures that can provide the appearance of wood. Fiber cement siding is more durable than wood -- it is termite-water-wind-snow-sun-hail-warp-shrinkage-rot resistant, non-combustible, and warranted to last 50 years, which you can transfer to subsequent owners.
While fiber cement siding has been in use for over 100 years, research and development continues today. Fiber cement siding is composed of cement, sand, and cellulose fiber that has been autoclaved (cured with pressurized steam) to increase its strength and dimensional stability. The fiber is added as reinforcement to prevent cracking.
Fiber cement products are very attractive. You can choose from a variety of clapboard siding styles that have embossed wood grained texture or smooth finish. The siding comes in a multitude of widths that permit you to have clapboard exposures ranging from 4 inches up to nearly 11 inches. You can decide among a smooth, stucco, or vertical rustic groove appearance
The fiber cement siding can be complemented by weather resistant vinyl or PVC-based Azek® trim and ventilation accessories. The trim pieces are used at inside and outside corners, where soffit pieces abut against one another and as a flashing material when the stucco panels abut one another. The vinyl or Azek® trim pieces are extremely tasteful. They must be used if you want your fiber cement siding and stucco panels to block wind driven rain and snow. Both vinyl or the superior Azek® trim readily accept paint or stain.
Fiber cement siding planks offer a unique capability. Because of the rigid nature of the product, they can be blind nailed with many of the available sizes. Each clapboard is nailed approximately 1 inch from the top edge. The next overlapping piece hides the nails below. This allows you to produce a siding job free from the polka dot appearance nails cause on many traditional wood sidings.
Because fiber cement siding must be primed and painted, either at the factory or onsite within 90 days of installation, your color options are virtually unlimited. 100 percent water based acrylic paint grips cement fiber products exceptionally well. The siding planks and stucco panels also accept stains. Because the cement products do not expand and contract to the extent that wood does, paint rarely peels and blisters and therefore holds paint for several years longer than wood.
My house, including the cedar siding you installed years ago, just needs painting…
Burr’s recently added professional paint department, for interior and exterior painting, is at the ready. Painting is not something you want to do often and especially not prematurely. Most paint problems are caused by these things:
1) Wrong paint for the project.
2) Wrong or no surface preparation.
3) Wrong application tools and/or techniques
It’s easy to assume all professional painting contractors will know what they’re doing and do what they’re supposed to. But you often won’t know if corners were cut, maybe so they can get your project based on a low bid. Then problems with blistering, cracking, flaking, leaching and mottling, to name just a few, can appear. By then it’s often too late as your contractor might not be easy to find.
“Professional painter” means more than just getting paid to do it. It means that all the necessary steps are taken, none are “missed”, and there’s more than just a couple guys with ladders, paint and brushes standing behind your paint project. Make sure your contract spells out the entire process so that you, your house and your investment are protected.
Here are the minimum steps you want to see in writing:
Power wash & clean all subject walls
Spot hand-scrape any remaining loose paint
All course edges will be feather sanded to smooth
Caulk all voids to reduce any water infiltration
Spot prime any bare wood surfaces
Identify damaged siding or trim needing replacement
All that BEFORE it’s time to PAINT, then…
Brush-apply two coats of premium exterior paint or stain
Wood window get trimmed, unless it’s clad
Paint any type siding or brick
Help you choose among many painting options
State in writing what’s included in clean up
These are the four choices which represent the most economical and viable options you have if the exterior of your house is in need of attention, for whatever reason. Those reasons can be anything such as you’re at risk of losing value in one of your most important assets, or you’d like to improve its “curb appeal” to help you sell, or you’d just love a “new” house to come home to. Each reason to improve the appearance or “look” of your house may warrant a different solution. And chances are good that a new, quality siding product or a fresh couple coats of new premium exterior house paint will address your problem.
Deciding what type of home siding is right for you is a bit like shopping for a new car. There are many options to choose from. You select the make and model you prefer based on your driving needs, i.e. performance, mileage, etc. The same is true when considering your siding options! As you decide which of the following options is right for you, please consider your house as it is now and what siding options you think could apply; your neighbors and your neighborhood: will what you’re considering complement the homes that are nearby; the amount of time you plan to stay in your home: that will impact your return on this home improvement investment; your dreams for your home: which option(s) have you begun to lean toward over the weeks, months and maybe years since you first contemplated this improvement? As Burr Roofing – Siding – Windows knows, deciding which choice is right for you can be part of a difficult decision. However, the siding option you choose represents only 20% of your total satisfaction. The contractor you choose to install it and stand behind it represents 80% of your total satisfaction. The goal is for you to make your smart choice. That takes 100% commitment to your 100% satisfaction…
Let’s start with “the 20%”
Revitalizing your home has never been simpler! Installing vinyl, cedar or fiber cement siding, or having premium exterior house paint applied will update your home’s look, enhance curb appeal, protect your home from the elements and increase your resale value. Still, it is quite an investment and you will want to carefully choose which option, style, color(s) and type of siding is best for you and your home. Truth be told... vinyl, cedar, fiber cement siding or painting/staining each have strengths and weaknesses depending on what is important to you. All of these options have proved to satisfy and delight homeowners everywhere with a “new” home they love coming home to every day!
Vinyl Siding
Valued for its long lasting qualities, array of styles, colors and durability, vinyl siding provides instant curb appeal. The cost of vinyl siding is also lower than that of other replacement siding materials.
Generally, thicker is better. The thinner the siding, the more it could sag over time. The thicker the siding, the stiffer and more durable it will tend to be. The best vinyl siding is thick and stiff.
Wind resistance. You want siding that will stay on the house in a storm. Some manufacturers actually warranty their siding in winds over 150 mph. Be sure to ask about wind resistance and the warranty.
Getting attached to siding. Unlike wood, vinyl siding is not attached tightly to the house. It more or less hangs on the side of the house, because it contracts and expands with heat and cold. A double hem mounting area usually provides better attachment than a single hem. If the siding is too tight, there's poor ventilation. If it's too loose, it can be noisy. Bottom line: it needs to be installed properly.
Rain resistance. Because it hangs loosely, vinyl siding is less likely to trap moisture. However, there are also areas where water can leak inside, so proper flashings should be installed, as well as house felt or builder's wrap.
Fading factor. The best vinyl siding, which is more expensive, tends to fade less than cheaper siding. Look for UV protection in the description, and ask about how it will stand up to sunlight. Also, if you live in a sunny area, ask about whether a light color would fade less than a dark color.
Pick you profile. Some vinyl siding is designed with a deeper profile, or a more pronounced bend in the design of the siding. This generally looks more like wood. So consider the overall look of the siding, to be sure you get what you want.
Cedar Siding: More Options – More Decisions
Cedar, over other types of exterior materials, is chosen for beauty and appeal more than maintenance and cost. While cedar is durable, rich, and natural, it does need to be re-stained or painted to keep its attractiveness. However, it can be left to naturally age without cracking, rotting or warping like other wood. You'll never have to chemically treat cedar if you like the unfinished look, and it has natural anti-fungal and antibacterial properties due to the tannins present in the wood.
You will need to consider the style of your home and those in your neighborhood. What color will enhance the beauty of your home? Given the local climate, how long will the siding last? Is it difficult to maintain? And, of course, can you afford the cost of vinyl siding or the other options?
There are few companies in the Fairfield, New Haven and Westchester counties that have the experience you need when it comes to cedar house siding. Proper installation and proper finish application is crucial to long-term performance. Make sure the company you are considering to do the work has a good number of cedar siding jobs under their belt. If you select the right product and have it installed correctly, cedar siding has incomparable beauty.
There are generally two types of cedar siding, red cedar and white cedar.
Red Cedar
Red Cedar is available in several basic styles and is more durable than white cedar. They are horizontal clapboard style (known as beveled siding), shingles, and shakes. Ask about the different grades available, which are generally determined by grain pattern.
TIP: As a rule, the narrower and thicker the grain pattern, the better the performance. Red Cedar is generally sold in clear unfinished form. Many homeowners like the natural look of weathered cedar. We do not advise this option because the product will not perform over the long term if left untreated.
TIP: Clear unfinished cedar house siding will not weather evenly due to each side of your house being exposed to the weather differently.
Clear Coat Solution Available For Unfinished Cedar
If you really prefer the natural look of unfinished cedar there is a clear coat solution available that will prolong the life of the wood and enable it to weather more slowing and evenly. This will allow you to maximize the performance and beauty of the product on your house. This clear coat is applied after the siding has been installed and is an excellent option if a long-term natural look is your goal.
Make sure to mention this when you speak to your Burr siding specialist.
Red Cedar is also available pre-primed at the factory, which means it has been coated on all sides using a primer such as Cabot's primer. This adds a benefit of sealing all sides (front, back, and edges) of the product so it is less likely to absorb moisture, expand and contract and move around like it will do in its natural state. This will prolong the life of the wood. But even factory pre-primed product will require field applied finish coats. Factory warranties on this finish range from 5 - 15 years.
Most site-applied stain rarely comes with more than a one or two year warranty on the finish. So for maximum performance consider a pre-primed or pre-finished option.
TIP: It is a fact that a house releases moisture everyday similar to sweating. If the backside of your cedar siding has not been treated, the moisture will find its way through the siding and try to push out through the painted or stained surface causing bubbles and cracks. If you prefer the beauty of wood siding and want to avoid painting any more than necessary be sure to purchase a siding product that has been back-sealed with a primer or finish coat.
White Cedar
White cedar is a shingle product only and comes from a different part of the country and from a different tree than red cedar. White cedar offers a very unique look and has very different grain characteristics than red cedar. In its natural state it has almost a whitish very light appearance and left unfinished it characteristically weathers to a silvery gray, a lighter color than what red cedar would weather to. White cedar is found in the North East and is famous on Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket. The shingles are smaller than red cedar shingles and offer a very unique and beautiful look on certain types of architecture (e.g. Cape Cod style houses, ranch style houses and some colonial style houses) A very “beachy” look indeed!
White cedar is also available factory finished and stained in various colors. But what makes white cedar so different than red cedar is that it comes available using a bleaching oil stain. This particular style is fast becoming a Burr specialty. Bleached white cedar is a very popular look in Coastal Connecticut. When bleached, you immediately get that silvery gray tint right from beginning consistently over the whole house.
The bleaching oil process allows for the weathering to occur very gradually and evenly keeping a uniform attractive appearance. Very often our customers see this style and they automatically say... "Yes, that is the look I want!"
Textures
Cedar Siding is available in smooth, rough or saw-textured surfaces. When used with clear or semi-transparent finishes, a smooth surface will show the grain patterns and color variations in the wood more than other textures. These surfaces also absorb less finish and typically require more maintenance than other textures. In contrast, rough and saw-textured surfaces can absorb about twice as much finish as smooth textured surfaces and, when protected by stain or water repellent finishes, need to be recoated much less frequently.
Wood siding and wood finishes go hand in hand in providing consumers with virtually unlimited choices for appearance. By properly selecting the grade, seasoning, pattern and texture of the siding and by protecting it from moisture, sun and mold with a quality finish, wood siding can last for many decades.
Accessories & Trim Work
Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference such as decorative trim including crown moldings, window casings, corner posts, fascia, soffits, freeze boards, accent trim, etc.
Burr Roofing – Siding – Windows specializes in this trim work that can really accent the look and feel of your new siding. Ask your siding specialist when you speak with him about available options for your project.
Tips on Maintaining Cedar House Siding
Moisture is the biggest and most common problem to homes with cedar siding. Moisture penetrates the siding through the smallest cracks and crevices, but keeping your siding dry takes just a few simple steps.
Check the flashing and caulking around your home
Try to maintain the interior humidity of around 40%
Install heating wires at the eaves to melt any ice before water backs up under the roof shingles
Have ice and water barrier installed initially or when re-roofed
Be sure your attic is properly insulated and air is well-circulated
Hire a contractor to take these measures if you cannot do it yourself
Cleaning Cedar Siding
Many people choose cedar siding for their homes because of how it looks. When it is properly maintained, cedar siding can be beautiful because of its color, but it can be susceptible to mildew, mold spores, bugs and dirt.
To clean, use a pressure washer. One can be rented from your local tool rental store. Use a somewhat low pressure to wash the siding or you will damage your wood. Wash the area with water first, then mix together a solution of water, dish or laundry soap and a little bleach for a cleaner that can transform your siding from grimy to gorgeous.
Cedar shakes and shingles are no different. They, too, can be damaged by moisture or severe weather, such as hail. But they are not maintenance-free and do not last a lifetime. They will need replacement if damaged and while they are highly efficient and are biodegradable, maintenance is required.
Make sure downspouts run all the way to the ground to keep moisture away from your shakes
Keep downspouts free of debris
Trim overhanging branches to avoid debris from falling on the shakes or in the downspouts
Treat your shakes to an anti fungal treatment at least once
Cedar needs to be stained or painted every few years to maintain it's natural beauty.
What else should I know when considering buying Cedar siding?
Cedar siding should last for many, many years, but it must be properly maintained.
Proper maintenance includes power washing, staining and sealing whenever the heat of the sun fades the finish, or moisture starts to turn to mold or mildew. Always allow wood to dry well before applying a new stain or finish.
Cedar is known for its grain and its rot resistance. It is straight, and resists splitting. Cedar takes a stain well and reveals a rich character. It is commonly used in shakes and shingles because it is dimensionally stable, resists swelling, and has less cupping and splitting. Cedar clapboards are popular, too, but clear grade A cedar can be very costly. Still, for its grain and texture, cedar is preferred for stain applications.
Some say that cedar is inherently more moisture and insect-resistant than pine, but no wood is insect or moisture-proof. All woods must be sealed and stained or painted to resist moisture, damage, and decay.
If not properly cared for, wood siding can quickly deteriorate. Common troubles include bowed or expanded panels, shrinkage, disintegration, fading and the local critters. It is important that you minimize exposure to moisture, i.e. avoid 'watering' your house by distancing sprinklers.
Painting will be required every 5 to 7 years, and staining every 3 to 5. Regular inspections of joints, nails and planks will help you maintain your wood siding for the years to come.
What is Fiber Cement siding & why should I consider Hardiplank® Fiber Cement for my home?
For homeowners that want the look of wood but don’t want the hassles and costs associated with it, fiber cement siding is a great alternative. Burr relies on fiber cement industry leader, James Hardie and their fantastic Hardiplank®. This product is available in a variety of textures that can provide the appearance of wood. Fiber cement siding is more durable than wood -- it is termite-water-wind-snow-sun-hail-warp-shrinkage-rot resistant, non-combustible, and warranted to last 50 years, which you can transfer to subsequent owners.
While fiber cement siding has been in use for over 100 years, research and development continues today. Fiber cement siding is composed of cement, sand, and cellulose fiber that has been autoclaved (cured with pressurized steam) to increase its strength and dimensional stability. The fiber is added as reinforcement to prevent cracking.
Fiber cement products are very attractive. You can choose from a variety of clapboard siding styles that have embossed wood grained texture or smooth finish. The siding comes in a multitude of widths that permit you to have clapboard exposures ranging from 4 inches up to nearly 11 inches. You can decide among a smooth, stucco, or vertical rustic groove appearance
The fiber cement siding can be complemented by weather resistant vinyl or PVC-based Azek® trim and ventilation accessories. The trim pieces are used at inside and outside corners, where soffit pieces abut against one another and as a flashing material when the stucco panels abut one another. The vinyl or Azek® trim pieces are extremely tasteful. They must be used if you want your fiber cement siding and stucco panels to block wind driven rain and snow. Both vinyl or the superior Azek® trim readily accept paint or stain.
Fiber cement siding planks offer a unique capability. Because of the rigid nature of the product, they can be blind nailed with many of the available sizes. Each clapboard is nailed approximately 1 inch from the top edge. The next overlapping piece hides the nails below. This allows you to produce a siding job free from the polka dot appearance nails cause on many traditional wood sidings.
Because fiber cement siding must be primed and painted, either at the factory or onsite within 90 days of installation, your color options are virtually unlimited. 100 percent water based acrylic paint grips cement fiber products exceptionally well. The siding planks and stucco panels also accept stains. Because the cement products do not expand and contract to the extent that wood does, paint rarely peels and blisters and therefore holds paint for several years longer than wood.
My house, including the cedar siding you installed years ago, just needs painting…
Burr’s recently added professional paint department, for interior and exterior painting, is at the ready. Painting is not something you want to do often and especially not prematurely. Most paint problems are caused by these things:
1) Wrong paint for the project.
2) Wrong or no surface preparation.
3) Wrong application tools and/or techniques
It’s easy to assume all professional painting contractors will know what they’re doing and do what they’re supposed to. But you often won’t know if corners were cut, maybe so they can get your project based on a low bid. Then problems with blistering, cracking, flaking, leaching and mottling, to name just a few, can appear. By then it’s often too late as your contractor might not be easy to find.
“Professional painter” means more than just getting paid to do it. It means that all the necessary steps are taken, none are “missed”, and there’s more than just a couple guys with ladders, paint and brushes standing behind your paint project. Make sure your contract spells out the entire process so that you, your house and your investment are protected.
Here are the minimum steps you want to see in writing:
Power wash & clean all subject walls
Spot hand-scrape any remaining loose paint
All course edges will be feather sanded to smooth
Caulk all voids to reduce any water infiltration
Spot prime any bare wood surfaces
Identify damaged siding or trim needing replacement
All that BEFORE it’s time to PAINT, then…
Brush-apply two coats of premium exterior paint or stain
Wood window get trimmed, unless it’s clad
Paint any type siding or brick
Help you choose among many painting options
State in writing what’s included in clean up
To Improve or Not to Improve Your House With New Gutters
Gutters Should Do More Than “Frame” Your Picture-Perfect Home
They need to work right to keep water from invading your house
Not only do your gutters need to look right, enhancing the look and complementing your style, they must work right for water to stay away from your house, inside and out. Gutters fail for several key reasons. More than simply getting “old”, gutters fail because the hangers and the fascia boards to which they are attached wear out due to inferior design. That old spike and ferrule hanging system placed every 10 feet or so just isn’t capable of handling the weight of ice and snow and the expansion and contraction of the gutter metal. Placing that stress on the hangers and wood they’re attached to are destine to fail. That you’re reading this report suggests this has happened to your gutters.
But what happens if you notice gutter trouble and wait?
Gutter problems, including leaders that aren’t properly attached or discharge properly, can take awhile to seriously complicate your life. Gutter problems might first present themselves as dripping where they shouldn’t or overflowing during heavier rains. You might notice a seperation between the gutter and the fascia board or vegetation sprouting up from inside. There could be creaking or scrapping sounds when a brisk wind blows loose leaders against your house or trees and shrubs.
But inevitably gutter problems of all types result in water accumulating where it shouldn’t, like on porch steps and walkways or inside your house, usually at the lowest level. Slips and falls when that outside accumlated water freezes is bad enough and is cause for you to take action to correct the problem. But when your house is invaded by water, maybe in areas of your basement that you rarely visit, that’s when real trouble starts.
Unheathly mold, mildew, and the stale odor of water-infiltrated enclosed spaces can occur when your gutters and leaders can’t move water away from your foundation. Water always seeks its level. Any items you have in the area of infiltration can be damaged or lost. There are few homeowner shocks greater than water invasion to put a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. Murphy’s Law says such events, when the time could be worse for them to occur, is exactly when they will occur, like on the weekend or holiday, when friends or family are over, or when it compounds any other issues or problems you are facing. How to avoid all this grief, anxiety, and nasty feeling in your stomach. If you’re interested in learning more about the details behind gutter failure and how Burr’s AquaMaster system solves all the problems that beset all other gutter systems, eventually, please read on…
The Top 3 Reasons Why Gutters Fail & How Burr's Innovative AquaMaster Gutter Protection Systems Overcome Them All
Reason #1
Your gutter hangers aren't sufficient for the weight of water, ice and snow, and your gutters fail.
The Solution: Burr's AquaMaster system, with its hem back gutter and hanger design, supports your gutters for the entire length, not just every 2-3 feet like with ordinary gutters.
Reason #2
The stress and fatigue when the gutter metal normally expands and contracts simply wear out your gutters and hangers, and your gutters fail.
The Solution: The AquaMaster system allows for the gutters to slide along the hem during the routine expansion and contraction of the metal. They can't separate from the fascia boards like ordinary gutters will.
Reason #3
Overflow water spills onto your fascia boards repeatedly so the wood rots, the gutter hangers fall away from the fascia and your gutters fail.
The Solution: The innovative design includes a metal apron that raises the back wall 1 ¼ inches up the fascia. If your gutters should clog with seeds, leaves, ice or snow, water will spill out the front, not over the back and onto the fascia boards like with ordinary gutters. The possibility of fascia board wood rot is greatly reduced when your gutters are AquaMaster from Burr.
With new gutters, it's all about “the look” and the value you want, and that means choices
Did you know that gutters come in:
2 different styles
3 different materials (we aren't going to mention PVC)
2 different thicknesses of aluminum
4 different hanging mechanisms
Seamless or seams
A multitude of colors
And that's just the gutters. Leaders come in 4 different styles with 2 different ways to attach them. Which options are right for you depend on the look you want and the value you want to add to your house. But if your only question is “how much will it cost and when can you start?” you're likely to be disappointed.
Seamless or seamed, aluminum or copper, “classic” or ½ round… Burr will help you decide
Oh man, COPPER! Especially if your roof is slate or wood, you must consider copper gutters and leaders. No matter what your roof is made of, you can't beat the way copper gutters & leaders will “frame” your picture-perfect home. Sure, copper gutters cost more than other material options, but you just might have to splurge a little to complete that perfect look for your home. Just decide between copper and aluminum, which comes in 14 colors, and then choose the gutter style that's best for you…
Both styles come in copper or aluminum
Burr gutter style options include seamless classic “O.G.-Style” with AquaMaster's unique 5” hemback design, or sleek-looking ½ round with seams every 20'. Inthe case of copper ½ -round, the seams are soldered, enhancing the look even further. Burr aluminum gutters are all 0.032 inch gauge versus the thinner 0.027 inch gutters installed by many builders, home centers and replacement gutter contractors who only care about price, not quality. No matter what style is best for you, they'll be custom-manufactured to your specifications on-site.
“Old fashioned” Corrugated “O.G.” or Unique Hem Back “O.G.” from Burr?
All replacement gutter contractors, except Burr, offer the old fashioned corrugated “O.G” style gutters. They're hung with hidden hangers and include the bizarre trait of having the gutters support the hangers rather than the hangers supporting the gutters. Weird but true!
Not only that, they're fixed in place with no place to go. Expansion and contraction of the metal can add and subtract ½ inch for 20' of gutter during the normal heating and cooling that occurs throughout the year. Corrugated “O.G” gutters, with hidden hangers every 2-3 feet, divide the gutter into sections. Each section is pinned at two points by the hangers. The recurring stress of expansion and contraction on the hangers and gutters can cause them to pull away from fascia, or buckle, loosening the hangers and allowing moisture to migrate between the gutters and fascia. That can lead to gutter failure and fascia wood rot over time.
The hanging mechanism makes the difference between your gutters hanging right or hanging down
Gutter spikes and the ferrules, the way your gutters are likely attached to your fascia boards now, are so inferior. Aluminum gutters like to twist, we call it torque, and will do so up to a quarter turn for every 25' of gutter. Couple this natural torque with the normal moisture in the fascia boards, and those spikes are eventually coming out. Then you've got gutter failure. This might be contributing why you're considering new gutters now.
The Mechanical Superiority of Burr's innovative AquaMaster design provides total home gutter protection
Burr's innovative AquaMaster hem back system includes reciprocal interlocking “J” hooking all along the back of the gutter and along the back of the apron, which is attached to the entire length of the fascia board. The “J” back of the gutters hang and slide on the “J” tracks of the hem apron. The metal hangers then actually support the gutters by attaching to the apron on the fascia with screws and hook under the front lip of the gutter. The gutters literally slide back and forth along the apron during expansion and contraction so no loosening or buckling can occur.
The possibility of fascia board wood rot is further reduced because the metal apron extends up onto the fascia 1 ¼ inches above the gutter, providing added protection for the fascia. This is a key component of the superior mechanical design of the AquaMaster system.
The right leaders with the right fasteners complete your “look”
To complete the clean look you desire Burr routinely uses hidden pipe cleats with the very best rust-resistant zinc screws painted to match your gutter/leader color. However, pipe bands are available for architectural and other decorative purposes.
Leaders come in 2 x 3” or 3 x 4” corrugated, or 3” or 4” smooth round or 3” or 4” corrugated/flute styles. There is some flexibility with the number of leaders required and their locations. Typically you need one 2 x 3 leader for every 600 sq. ft. of roof. However, your Burr consultant can explain all your options for size and placement so your leaders can complete the look and add the value you desire to your home.
Leader failure can cause gutter failure
The #1 cause of leader failure, when they separate from the side of your house and then from the gutters, is the loosening and rusting of the screws used to attach them. Burr only uses the very best zinc red rust protected screws from Raytec, the leader in leader screws. Almost all other installers use screws plated with the very thinnest coating of zinc, the type designed for indoor use, which only lasts between 24-48 hours in an industry standard salt spray test. Raytec screws, designed specifically for outdoor use, are plated by an innovative process that rates 200 hours in that very same test. Raytec engineers have distinguished themselves by developing the “Gold Standard” for leader screw durability and are further evidence that Burr is your smart choice for gutters and leaders too.
Fascias can be a problem, but not with Burr
Just like with roofing projects, wood problems can sometimes only be identified after the project's begun. Burr only uses the most rot-resistant wood available, pre-primed redwood, or new high tech, rot-proof Azek composite trimboards, if your fascia boards need to be replaced.If your fascia requires painting along with your house-painting project, Burr will coordinate your old gutter removal and new gutter installation with your painting contractor. Burr will remove your old gutters and leaders, wait for the completion of your painting project, and return to manufacture and install your new gutters.
They need to work right to keep water from invading your house
Not only do your gutters need to look right, enhancing the look and complementing your style, they must work right for water to stay away from your house, inside and out. Gutters fail for several key reasons. More than simply getting “old”, gutters fail because the hangers and the fascia boards to which they are attached wear out due to inferior design. That old spike and ferrule hanging system placed every 10 feet or so just isn’t capable of handling the weight of ice and snow and the expansion and contraction of the gutter metal. Placing that stress on the hangers and wood they’re attached to are destine to fail. That you’re reading this report suggests this has happened to your gutters.
But what happens if you notice gutter trouble and wait?
Gutter problems, including leaders that aren’t properly attached or discharge properly, can take awhile to seriously complicate your life. Gutter problems might first present themselves as dripping where they shouldn’t or overflowing during heavier rains. You might notice a seperation between the gutter and the fascia board or vegetation sprouting up from inside. There could be creaking or scrapping sounds when a brisk wind blows loose leaders against your house or trees and shrubs.
But inevitably gutter problems of all types result in water accumulating where it shouldn’t, like on porch steps and walkways or inside your house, usually at the lowest level. Slips and falls when that outside accumlated water freezes is bad enough and is cause for you to take action to correct the problem. But when your house is invaded by water, maybe in areas of your basement that you rarely visit, that’s when real trouble starts.
Unheathly mold, mildew, and the stale odor of water-infiltrated enclosed spaces can occur when your gutters and leaders can’t move water away from your foundation. Water always seeks its level. Any items you have in the area of infiltration can be damaged or lost. There are few homeowner shocks greater than water invasion to put a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. Murphy’s Law says such events, when the time could be worse for them to occur, is exactly when they will occur, like on the weekend or holiday, when friends or family are over, or when it compounds any other issues or problems you are facing. How to avoid all this grief, anxiety, and nasty feeling in your stomach. If you’re interested in learning more about the details behind gutter failure and how Burr’s AquaMaster system solves all the problems that beset all other gutter systems, eventually, please read on…
The Top 3 Reasons Why Gutters Fail & How Burr's Innovative AquaMaster Gutter Protection Systems Overcome Them All
Reason #1
Your gutter hangers aren't sufficient for the weight of water, ice and snow, and your gutters fail.
The Solution: Burr's AquaMaster system, with its hem back gutter and hanger design, supports your gutters for the entire length, not just every 2-3 feet like with ordinary gutters.
Reason #2
The stress and fatigue when the gutter metal normally expands and contracts simply wear out your gutters and hangers, and your gutters fail.
The Solution: The AquaMaster system allows for the gutters to slide along the hem during the routine expansion and contraction of the metal. They can't separate from the fascia boards like ordinary gutters will.
Reason #3
Overflow water spills onto your fascia boards repeatedly so the wood rots, the gutter hangers fall away from the fascia and your gutters fail.
The Solution: The innovative design includes a metal apron that raises the back wall 1 ¼ inches up the fascia. If your gutters should clog with seeds, leaves, ice or snow, water will spill out the front, not over the back and onto the fascia boards like with ordinary gutters. The possibility of fascia board wood rot is greatly reduced when your gutters are AquaMaster from Burr.
With new gutters, it's all about “the look” and the value you want, and that means choices
Did you know that gutters come in:
2 different styles
3 different materials (we aren't going to mention PVC)
2 different thicknesses of aluminum
4 different hanging mechanisms
Seamless or seams
A multitude of colors
And that's just the gutters. Leaders come in 4 different styles with 2 different ways to attach them. Which options are right for you depend on the look you want and the value you want to add to your house. But if your only question is “how much will it cost and when can you start?” you're likely to be disappointed.
Seamless or seamed, aluminum or copper, “classic” or ½ round… Burr will help you decide
Oh man, COPPER! Especially if your roof is slate or wood, you must consider copper gutters and leaders. No matter what your roof is made of, you can't beat the way copper gutters & leaders will “frame” your picture-perfect home. Sure, copper gutters cost more than other material options, but you just might have to splurge a little to complete that perfect look for your home. Just decide between copper and aluminum, which comes in 14 colors, and then choose the gutter style that's best for you…
Both styles come in copper or aluminum
Burr gutter style options include seamless classic “O.G.-Style” with AquaMaster's unique 5” hemback design, or sleek-looking ½ round with seams every 20'. Inthe case of copper ½ -round, the seams are soldered, enhancing the look even further. Burr aluminum gutters are all 0.032 inch gauge versus the thinner 0.027 inch gutters installed by many builders, home centers and replacement gutter contractors who only care about price, not quality. No matter what style is best for you, they'll be custom-manufactured to your specifications on-site.
“Old fashioned” Corrugated “O.G.” or Unique Hem Back “O.G.” from Burr?
All replacement gutter contractors, except Burr, offer the old fashioned corrugated “O.G” style gutters. They're hung with hidden hangers and include the bizarre trait of having the gutters support the hangers rather than the hangers supporting the gutters. Weird but true!
Not only that, they're fixed in place with no place to go. Expansion and contraction of the metal can add and subtract ½ inch for 20' of gutter during the normal heating and cooling that occurs throughout the year. Corrugated “O.G” gutters, with hidden hangers every 2-3 feet, divide the gutter into sections. Each section is pinned at two points by the hangers. The recurring stress of expansion and contraction on the hangers and gutters can cause them to pull away from fascia, or buckle, loosening the hangers and allowing moisture to migrate between the gutters and fascia. That can lead to gutter failure and fascia wood rot over time.
The hanging mechanism makes the difference between your gutters hanging right or hanging down
Gutter spikes and the ferrules, the way your gutters are likely attached to your fascia boards now, are so inferior. Aluminum gutters like to twist, we call it torque, and will do so up to a quarter turn for every 25' of gutter. Couple this natural torque with the normal moisture in the fascia boards, and those spikes are eventually coming out. Then you've got gutter failure. This might be contributing why you're considering new gutters now.
The Mechanical Superiority of Burr's innovative AquaMaster design provides total home gutter protection
Burr's innovative AquaMaster hem back system includes reciprocal interlocking “J” hooking all along the back of the gutter and along the back of the apron, which is attached to the entire length of the fascia board. The “J” back of the gutters hang and slide on the “J” tracks of the hem apron. The metal hangers then actually support the gutters by attaching to the apron on the fascia with screws and hook under the front lip of the gutter. The gutters literally slide back and forth along the apron during expansion and contraction so no loosening or buckling can occur.
The possibility of fascia board wood rot is further reduced because the metal apron extends up onto the fascia 1 ¼ inches above the gutter, providing added protection for the fascia. This is a key component of the superior mechanical design of the AquaMaster system.
The right leaders with the right fasteners complete your “look”
To complete the clean look you desire Burr routinely uses hidden pipe cleats with the very best rust-resistant zinc screws painted to match your gutter/leader color. However, pipe bands are available for architectural and other decorative purposes.
Leaders come in 2 x 3” or 3 x 4” corrugated, or 3” or 4” smooth round or 3” or 4” corrugated/flute styles. There is some flexibility with the number of leaders required and their locations. Typically you need one 2 x 3 leader for every 600 sq. ft. of roof. However, your Burr consultant can explain all your options for size and placement so your leaders can complete the look and add the value you desire to your home.
Leader failure can cause gutter failure
The #1 cause of leader failure, when they separate from the side of your house and then from the gutters, is the loosening and rusting of the screws used to attach them. Burr only uses the very best zinc red rust protected screws from Raytec, the leader in leader screws. Almost all other installers use screws plated with the very thinnest coating of zinc, the type designed for indoor use, which only lasts between 24-48 hours in an industry standard salt spray test. Raytec screws, designed specifically for outdoor use, are plated by an innovative process that rates 200 hours in that very same test. Raytec engineers have distinguished themselves by developing the “Gold Standard” for leader screw durability and are further evidence that Burr is your smart choice for gutters and leaders too.
Fascias can be a problem, but not with Burr
Just like with roofing projects, wood problems can sometimes only be identified after the project's begun. Burr only uses the most rot-resistant wood available, pre-primed redwood, or new high tech, rot-proof Azek composite trimboards, if your fascia boards need to be replaced.If your fascia requires painting along with your house-painting project, Burr will coordinate your old gutter removal and new gutter installation with your painting contractor. Burr will remove your old gutters and leaders, wait for the completion of your painting project, and return to manufacture and install your new gutters.
To Improve or Not to Improve Your House With a New Roof
Sometimes the decision for a new roof is easy, sometimes it’s hard
All those who want to spend any money at all on a new roof, raise your hand. We know yours isn’t raised because hardly anyone wants to spend money on a new roof. Almost without exception, a new roof comes under the need to column. It usually becomes a need when you find water is getting into your house, where you live. You might be lucky and a less costly repair of chimney or siding flashing solves your problem. But more often than not water getting into where you live is a symptom of roofing system failure which requires a new roof. While spending the money is not easy, the decision to do so pretty much is.
But what can happen if you wait?
A failed roofing system has occurred months and sometimes even years before water gets into where you live. And not many people wait to address it once water gets in there. We’re talking about the waiting people do after they first notice some type of roof deterioration has begun.
Not many people make annual roof inspections part of their house maintenance routines. So roof deterioration becomes evident almost by accident or happenstance. A failing roofing system can become first evident by looking on the ground. Roof granules present at the end of leaders, especially after a heavy rain, speak to the end of a roof’s useful life. Retrieving a kite or Frisbee from the roof or cleaning out a clogged gutter or leader might provide the first opportunity to notice something amiss on your roof. When was the last time you took a real good look at your roof?
Here are several examples of a failed roofing system, ones that virtually guarantee water is getting into your house, maybe not yet where you live:
Cupping, Curling or Missing Shingles
Failing Flashing
Lost Granules
Moss or Algea Growth
Do any of these roof problems mean water is getting into my house NOW?
In a word, YES! Have you heard the old saying that “water always finds its level?” Any of these roofing problems give water a chance to do that in ways other than it’s supposed to. Just like a mosquito can find its way into your house through the most innocent of cracked doors, frayed screens or on clothes, so too can water find its way into your house under cupped, curled or missing shingles, failed flashing or by adhering to moss or algae growth. Then what happens?
Water getting into where you live now depends now on two things. They are 1) the amount of water available, like during a big rain storm or snow melt, and 2) the continued deterioration of your roofing system because once a problem starts it can ONLY get worse over time. Unfortunately, no one has invented a roof that fixes itself.
Should I put off a new roof until water gets in to where we live?
That depends. What’s it worth to you to preserve what’s under your roof? That would include such things as what’s stored in your attic, your insulation that conserves energy only if it’s not WET, your ceiling and walls because water spots only get bigger and uglier, and the health of you and your family.
If your roofing system has failed, even with the loss of one shingle, the costs associated with replacing your roof go UP every single day you wait. Every day you wait costs more to heat and/or cool your home due to soggy insulation. Every day you wait sees the cost of petroleum-based products like shingles go up along with the costs of running a roofing business. Every day you wait finds more attic contents being stained, warped or otherwise damaged. Every day you wait gives water a chance to stain your ceiling and walls and maybe drip on your head and floor.
Putting off a new roof can cost you even more than that
Mold is becoming a bigger health threat every day. It loves wet surfaces and requires a recurring source of moisture to thrive. If mold was only up in the attic it might be better to stay right there. But like every living thing, mold likes to reproduce by sending out spores to look for more wet surfaces along with a moisture source. Breathing those spores can cause serious health problems. If your roofing system has failed you are one mold spore away from a health threat to you and your family. It’s just that simple and sad. We hope you can see it doesn’t pay to wait once you see the first sign of roofing system failure because it just keeps getting worse AND more expensive. The key is to recognize the signs early.
All those who want to spend any money at all on a new roof, raise your hand. We know yours isn’t raised because hardly anyone wants to spend money on a new roof. Almost without exception, a new roof comes under the need to column. It usually becomes a need when you find water is getting into your house, where you live. You might be lucky and a less costly repair of chimney or siding flashing solves your problem. But more often than not water getting into where you live is a symptom of roofing system failure which requires a new roof. While spending the money is not easy, the decision to do so pretty much is.
But what can happen if you wait?
A failed roofing system has occurred months and sometimes even years before water gets into where you live. And not many people wait to address it once water gets in there. We’re talking about the waiting people do after they first notice some type of roof deterioration has begun.
Not many people make annual roof inspections part of their house maintenance routines. So roof deterioration becomes evident almost by accident or happenstance. A failing roofing system can become first evident by looking on the ground. Roof granules present at the end of leaders, especially after a heavy rain, speak to the end of a roof’s useful life. Retrieving a kite or Frisbee from the roof or cleaning out a clogged gutter or leader might provide the first opportunity to notice something amiss on your roof. When was the last time you took a real good look at your roof?
Here are several examples of a failed roofing system, ones that virtually guarantee water is getting into your house, maybe not yet where you live:
Cupping, Curling or Missing Shingles
Failing Flashing
Lost Granules
Moss or Algea Growth
Do any of these roof problems mean water is getting into my house NOW?
In a word, YES! Have you heard the old saying that “water always finds its level?” Any of these roofing problems give water a chance to do that in ways other than it’s supposed to. Just like a mosquito can find its way into your house through the most innocent of cracked doors, frayed screens or on clothes, so too can water find its way into your house under cupped, curled or missing shingles, failed flashing or by adhering to moss or algae growth. Then what happens?
Water getting into where you live now depends now on two things. They are 1) the amount of water available, like during a big rain storm or snow melt, and 2) the continued deterioration of your roofing system because once a problem starts it can ONLY get worse over time. Unfortunately, no one has invented a roof that fixes itself.
Should I put off a new roof until water gets in to where we live?
That depends. What’s it worth to you to preserve what’s under your roof? That would include such things as what’s stored in your attic, your insulation that conserves energy only if it’s not WET, your ceiling and walls because water spots only get bigger and uglier, and the health of you and your family.
If your roofing system has failed, even with the loss of one shingle, the costs associated with replacing your roof go UP every single day you wait. Every day you wait costs more to heat and/or cool your home due to soggy insulation. Every day you wait sees the cost of petroleum-based products like shingles go up along with the costs of running a roofing business. Every day you wait finds more attic contents being stained, warped or otherwise damaged. Every day you wait gives water a chance to stain your ceiling and walls and maybe drip on your head and floor.
Putting off a new roof can cost you even more than that
Mold is becoming a bigger health threat every day. It loves wet surfaces and requires a recurring source of moisture to thrive. If mold was only up in the attic it might be better to stay right there. But like every living thing, mold likes to reproduce by sending out spores to look for more wet surfaces along with a moisture source. Breathing those spores can cause serious health problems. If your roofing system has failed you are one mold spore away from a health threat to you and your family. It’s just that simple and sad. We hope you can see it doesn’t pay to wait once you see the first sign of roofing system failure because it just keeps getting worse AND more expensive. The key is to recognize the signs early.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Remember Me?
I got a New Roof!
Location: Stratford, Connecticut
Work Done: Tear off old Shingles, Re-Roof and
Replace Gutters and Leaders
Product: CertainTeed Landmark 30 Shingles
Color(s): Atlantic Blue
Seamless Aluminum Gutters
Color(s): White
Manager: Keith Rongey
Foreman: Nick
Date Completed: October 2008
Remember Me?
I got a New Roof!
Location: Stamford, Connecticut
Work Done: Tear off old Shingles and Re-Roof
Product(s): CertainTeed Landmark 30 Shingles
Color(s): Colonial Slate
Manager: Matt Camarota
Foreman: Nick
Date Completed: August 2008
Homeowner Comments: “Thank you for a wonderful job and indeed a superb experience with Burr from start to finish”
Work Done: Tear off old Shingles and Re-Roof
Product(s): CertainTeed Landmark 30 Shingles
Color(s): Colonial Slate
Manager: Matt Camarota
Foreman: Nick
Date Completed: August 2008
Homeowner Comments: “Thank you for a wonderful job and indeed a superb experience with Burr from start to finish”
Remember Me?
I got New Siding AND New Windows!
Location: Westport, Connecticut
Work Done: Tear off old wood siding, Re-Side,
Re-Trim, Replace gutters and leaders and
Replace all windows
Product: 16” White Cedar Shingles with Bleaching Oil
Kler Trim
Color(s): White
Alside Excaliber Windows
Seamless Aluminum Gutters
Color(s): White
Manager: Bob Priest
Foreman: Greg
Date Completed: July 2008
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